Raffinee by Houbigant (1982)

Launched in 1982, Raffinée by Houbigant arrived at a time when the fragrance market had become fragmented by lifestyle branding. Perfumes were no longer just perfumes—they were now marketed as “sporty,” “career-oriented,” “for housewives,” or “for nightlife.” In this landscape of narrowly defined identities, Raffinée was a deliberate and ambitious return to perfume’s original purpose: the invisible expression of luxury. It was conceived and created with one goal—to be what perfume was meant to be. "Luxury has a sensual appeal. The French understand that," stated Enrico Donati, then-owner and chairman of Houbigant. "I felt the time was right for a perfume collection of refined luxury, opulence and splendor. In today's world, luxury is a vanishing experience for many people, yet there is a universal yearning for it."

Houbigant, founded in Paris in 1775, had long served as perfumer to the aristocracy, including members of the court of Louis XVI. Its earliest ledgers recorded the names of nobility—proof of its historic standing in French society. With Raffinée, the company sought to reaffirm its heritage. After four years of meticulous development, the fragrance was introduced to the American market in September 1982, and it was made and packaged in France by Houbigant Paris, the fine fragrance division of the global enterprise. The scent was created in Grasse, the world’s perfume capital, where Jean-François Houbigant had made his very first fragrance over two centuries earlier.

The name Raffinée was carefully chosen to reflect the perfume’s purpose and character. “The word 'raffinée' is the highest compliment the French can pay a woman,” Donati explained. “It means someone who is innately elegant, distinctive, polished, with an instinct for the exquisite. In a roomful of women, many can look attractive, even beautiful, but the raffinée woman stands out. She has a certain quality that sets her apart. The word eludes exact translation into English. It means everything about a woman is just right.” Pronounced "rah-fee-NAY", the French word evokes not only a sense of refinement but also of rarity and sophistication—qualities Houbigant infused into every facet of the perfume.

The fragrance itself is a masterful composition, classified as a floral oriental. This genre—known for its romantic, velvety warmth—was particularly suited to the early 1980s, a period marked by a transition from the austerity of the 1970s into a new era of assertive glamour. Fashion was moving toward bold silhouettes, strong makeup, and a rediscovery of luxe materials—power dressing with a sensual undercurrent. It was the era of Dynasty, Knot's Landing and Falcon Crest, of opulent fabrics, metallics, statement jewelry and structured femininity. In perfumery, bolder, richer compositions were making a comeback, reflecting the growing cultural emphasis on status and impact.

Into this setting stepped Raffinée, composed of over 200 individual ingredients. Houbigant described it as an "orchestrated fragrance"—a perfume that evolves in movements, like music, with notes blooming in stages. “It is as if you were walking through a garden and flower after flower opened around you, delighting your senses and enveloping you in a heady richness of living fragrance.” This olfactory tableau includes jasmine, rose, hyacinth, Florentine orris, mimosa, and secret floral notes, warmed with spicy herbs and deepened by sandalwood. The result is a scent with both depth and luminosity—seductive, enveloping, and enduring.

Interpreting the word Raffinée in scent, one imagines polish without pretension, poise without effort. It would be an elegant woman’s perfume—neither flashy nor trendy, but commanding attention through sheer presence. The richness of the floral-oriental structure supports this, as does its impressive longevity and layered development on the skin.

At the time of its launch, Raffinée stood out for its opulence and intricacy in a market increasingly dominated by simpler, lifestyle-driven scents. While it aligned with a broader trend toward bolder perfumes—such as Opium (1977), Chanel Coco (1984), and Paloma Picasso (1984)—Raffinée retained a distinct refinement. It was not a perfume of provocation but of cultivated elegance, embodying the very values that once drew aristocratic clients to Houbigant’s doors at Versailles. The company had come full circle: in an era seeking identity and aspiration, Raffinée offered women not just a fragrance, but a legacy of luxury redefined.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Raffinee is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It is composed of over two hundred ingredients, combining floral and oriental notes. Jasmine, roses and hyacinth with Florentine orris and mimosa, laced with other natural florals.

• Top notes: powdery aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Amalfi lemon, Sicilian orange, Tunisian orange blossom, French carnation, Zanzibar clove, Egyptian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Hungarian clary sage, Persian galbanum, Chilean plum  
• Middle notes: Chinese osmanthus, orchid, Dutch hyacinth, Moroccan mimosa, Portuguese tuberose, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Russian coriander, Provencal herbs, Florentine orris, Venezuelan tonka bean
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Madagascar vanilla, Siam benzoin, Spanish labdanum, Vietnamese cinnamon, Ceylon cardamom, Indian cumin, La Crau cypress, Haitian vetiver, Malaysian patchouli, Balkans oakmoss,  Sudanese myrrh, Omani frankincense and Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:

To smell Raffinée is to be swept into an opulent procession—like walking through a palace garden that unfurls into a faraway spice market, then finally descends into the hushed stillness of a sacred grove. A floral oriental in the grand French tradition, Raffinée is composed of more than 200 ingredients, each note carefully chosen not only for its scent but for its origin, terroir, and character. This is not a fragrance that simply unfolds—it blooms, burns, and lingers, each note emerging as if on cue in a luxuriously orchestrated olfactory ballet.

It opens in a shimmer of powdery aldehydes, those gauzy molecules that give perfume a starched brightness, like silk lit from within. They act as the luminous veil through which the first fruits emerge. Calabrian bergamot, prized for its refined bitterness and gentle green nuances, blends with Amalfi lemon, which sparkles with crisp, sun-drenched clarity. Then comes the deeper, honeyed Sicilian orange, juicier and rounder, lending warmth to the citrus bouquet. A halo of Tunisian orange blossom softens the fruit with a luminous floral creaminess, its neroli facets glowing under the aldehydes.

Into this citrus-floral brilliance steps French carnation—clove-like and spicy, slightly dry—introducing a peppery tension that draws in the nose. This segues seamlessly into the Zanzibar clove, whose eugenol-rich warmth deepens the opening with a sweet-hot intensity, a fiery glint against the cool aldehydic veil. From here, Egyptian jasmine unspools in indolic ribbons, sultry and narcotic, interwoven with Bulgarian rose, famed for its dark, velvety character—rich, spicy, and honeyed all at once. The green, slightly musky edge of Hungarian clary sage acts as a verdant counterpoint, while Persian galbanum, with its inky green bitterness and resinous body, anchors the florals and sharpens their edges.

As the perfume evolves, it enters the plush heart of its floral composition. Chinese osmanthus introduces a note of apricot-like suede—fruity, floral, and faintly animalic. It’s joined by orchid, whose cool, elusive sweetness lends a waxy translucency. Dutch hyacinth appears next, bold and green, yet watery, evoking spring blooms still damp with dew. Moroccan mimosa, powdery and golden, breathes in a gentle, sun-warmed sweetness, balanced by Portuguese tuberose, whose creamy, narcotic floralcy feels almost edible. The ylang ylang from Nossi-Bé (an island off Madagascar) adds another dimension of tropical richness—banana-like and leathery, yet spicy and floral, a contradiction in bloom.

Threaded through the heart is the crisp spice of Russian coriander, dry and aromatic, while a bouquet of Provençal herbs—perhaps thyme, rosemary, and lavender—lends a whisper of fresh, herbal clarity. Florentine orris, among the rarest and most expensive ingredients in perfumery, imparts a soft, rooty richness—violet-like and buttery—enhancing the roundness of the bouquet. Then comes Venezuelan tonka bean, sweet with coumarin, its nutty-vanillic aroma like crushed almonds warmed in the hand, acting as a gentle transition into the deeper, resinous base.

The drydown of Raffinée is where its full oriental grandeur is revealed. Mysore sandalwood, now almost extinct in modern perfumery due to overharvesting, offers a creamy, sacred woodiness unlike any other variety—milky, soft, and spicy with a subtle balsamic richness. This is deepened by ambergris, not the synthetic "amber" of modern perfumery, but the true marine substance—salty, warm, and faintly animalic, giving a weightless, silken longevity to the fragrance. Madagascar vanilla contributes its liqueur-like sweetness, warm and comforting without ever becoming cloying. Siam benzoin, with its caramel and incense facets, further enhances this warmth, while Spanish labdanum brings a leathery, balsamic fullness, tinged with earth and smoke.

The spice palette unfolds next: Vietnamese cinnamon, red and sharp, plays against Ceylon cardamom, citrusy and resinous, and Indian cumin, which lends a musky, skin-like warmth, grounding the composition in sensuality. La Crau cypress—from a windswept region in southern France—contributes a woody astringency that slices clean through the sweetness. Then comes Haitian vetiver, smoky and dry, its grassy bitterness harmonizing with the earthiness of Malaysian patchouli, which is darker, deeper, and more resinous than its Indonesian counterpart.

The base closes in sacred tones—Balkans oakmoss, cool and mossy, weaves through Sudanese myrrh and Omani frankincense, both resinous and sacred, sweet-smoky and reverent, like the scent of old churches or desert altars. And finally, Tonkin musk—legendary for its animalic warmth—delivers a soft, sensual aura that clings to the skin, the scent of heat, intimacy, and time itself.

Together, these ingredients create not just a perfume, but a story—a global tale of craftsmanship, tradition, and luxurious intent. The synthetic elements—such as aldehydes and coumarin—are not there to mimic, but to amplify: the aldehydes elevate the florals, making them shimmer; coumarin from tonka smooths the transition between creamy and spicy elements; synthetic musks enhance sillage and skin affinity. Rather than obscuring nature, these molecules are its lens, helping each raw material shine with greater clarity and radiance.

Raffinée is, in every sense, a perfume of refinement. A fragrance not of fashion, but of character—layered, cultured, timeless.

1 oz Parfum $75 (originally retailed for $75.00 in 1982)

0.5 oz Parfum $50  (originally retailed for $50.00 in 1982)

0.25 oz Parfum $35  (originally retailed for $35.00 in 1982)

0.2 oz Parfum Refillable Purse Spray (originally retailed for $25.00 in 1982)

2 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $17.50 in 1982)

1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $12.50 in 1982)

0.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray $8 (originally retailed for $8 in 1982)

Bottles:

The Raffinée product line by Houbigant was conceived as a complete luxury experience, not merely a fragrance but a statement of taste, refinement, and sensory indulgence. Every element—from bottle design to packaging materials—was created to embody the name Raffinée, the French word evoking elegant distinction, sophistication, and polish. In keeping with this ideal, the collection was crafted in Paris and housed in lacquered burgundy red and burnished gold, with details reminiscent of fine jewelry. At the heart of the line is the fragrance itself—a floral oriental with extraordinary complexity—and each product within the collection was designed to extend and complement its rich character.

The Parfum (Extrait de Parfum) bottles are the pinnacle of the line—true luxury in both form and essence. The bottle, designed by renowned French artist Alain de Mourgues, is crowned with a hand-polished glass stopper and framed by a sculptural golden sheath. This sheath is not merely decorative—it reflects light into the perfume within, creating the illusion that the fragrance is glowing from within. It is a visual metaphor for the fragrance itself: luminous, golden, and profoundly refined. The Parfum was available in multiple sizes: 1 oz, 0.5 oz, 0.25 oz, 1/8 oz mini, a 0.2 oz refillable purse spray, and a 0.35 oz purse spray. These concentrations are the most intensely rich and long-lasting, with the highest percentage of aromatic compounds, giving depth and staying power that evolves gradually on the skin over hours.

The Parfum was further celebrated through a series of Collector’s Editions, released in limited numbers:

• "La Princesse" (1984): A 0.5 oz Parfum flacon, nestled in a plush burgundy velvet sheath—a regal presentation reflecting the fragrance’s aristocratic inspiration.

• "Tresor Dore" (1984): a 0.25 oz Parfum flacon, a golden square purse bottle, inside a velvet pouch.

• "Le Trianon" (1985): A demi-lune shaped bottle in burgundy and gold, housed in a moiré fabric case, holding 0.25 oz Parfum—evoking the elegance of Versailles.

• "La Parisienne" (1986): A 0.2 oz refillable Art Deco styled purse spray in a rounded flacon with a demi-lune cap, tucked into a velvet pouch—chic, portable, and distinctively French.

• "Le Bijou" (1990): A 0.25 oz Parfum presented in a round, jewel-like flacon in burgundy and gold—designed to resemble a treasured keepsake.

The Eau de Parfum sprays maintained the luxury ethos with bottles topped by a hand-assembled, five-piece cap in burgundy and gold. Offered in 2.6 oz, 2 oz, 1 oz, and 0.5 oz sizes, the Eau de Parfum retained much of the fragrance's original depth but offered a slightly airier diffusion and a more pronounced radiance, making it ideal for those who desired the opulence of Raffinée in a wearable, everyday format.

The Parfum de Toilette was a richly concentrated version of Raffinée, formulated at a strength equivalent to an Eau de Parfum. Offered in a 2 oz spray, it provided impressive longevity and depth, bridging the intensity of a parfum with the ease of a spray format. It was housed in the same elegant burgundy and gold bottle design used across the Raffinée collection, maintaining the line’s cohesive, jewel-like aesthetic.

The Eau de Toilette was offered in 3.4 oz (under Aladdin Fragrances Inc.), 2 oz, 1 oz, and 0.5 oz bottles, using the same burgundy and gold visual language. This lighter formulation emphasized the sparkling aldehydes, florals, and citrusy top notes, with a brisker evolution on the skin—perfect for daytime wear or warmer climates. The Eau de Cologne, offered in a 2 oz size, was even more subtle, offering a fleeting, fresh impression of the scent—a gentle whisper of Raffinée’s core identity.

To fully immerse the wearer in the Raffinée experience, Houbigant developed a series of bath and body products that extended the scent ritual:

• Voile Parfumée pour le Corps (Perfumed Body Veil): This moisturizing lotion came in two formats. The 1 oz version mirrored the shape of the Eau de Parfum bottle, making it ideal for travel or layering with fragrance, its larger counterpart, 4.5 oz was housed in a frosted glass bottle shaped much like the 1 oz. The 5 oz version, housed in a chunky frosted glass bottle, offered a rich, hydrating experience with a silky finish that enhanced the perfume’s longevity on skin.

• Gel Moussant Parfumée (Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel): The 8 oz plastic bottle, added a touch of elegance to the bath ritual. The gel cleansed gently while leaving behind a soft trail of scent, prepping the skin for layering with lotion or parfum.

• Huile Parfumée pour le Bain (Perfumed Bath Oil): Housed in the same chunky frosted glass bottle as the larger body veil, this oil could be poured into a warm bath to disperse fragrance and moisture. It delivered a decadent, skin-softening experience while perfuming the entire bathroom with the signature floral oriental bouquet.

• Poudre Parfumée (Dusting Powder): Offered in 6 oz size, this silky-smooth body powder was packaged in the same chunky frosted glass jar as the body oil and veil. Also offered in 2 oz and 5 oz sizes translucent burgundy boxes with glinting gold covers. Ideal for post-bath luxury, it scented the skin with delicacy while leaving a velvety finish.

• Savon Parfumé (Perfumed Soap): The 100g bar was a finely milled soap that produced a creamy lather, gently perfuming the skin and extending the fragrance ritual into the most basic elements of daily care.

• Talc Parfumé (Perfumed Talc): In a 3.75 oz burgundy and gold plastic canister, the talcum powder was a practical yet elegant solution for light perfuming and freshness, ideal for hot climates or as a layering base for other products.

• Parfum Flambé (Perfumed Candle): One of the rarest offerings, this 2 oz candle came in the same chunky frosted glass bottle as the body oil and veil. Designed to scent the room with Raffinée, it transformed the fragrance into a space-filling presence, extending the aura of luxury beyond the body.

Together, these products created a full fragrance wardrobe—from the most concentrated parfum to ethereal cologne, from cleansing gels to candles. What unified them all was the attention to detail: the deep red lacquer, the brushed gold touches, and the craftsmanship in every cap, case, and flacon. Whether worn as a singular statement or layered for depth, Raffinée offered a return to the sensuality and elegance of a bygone era—one rich in ritual, sophistication, and unmistakable French luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Although Raffinée remains available today, its continued presence on the market is the result of a long and tangled legacy of corporate transitions, bankruptcies, and licensing arrangements. Originally launched by Houbigant in 1982 as a luxurious floral oriental fragrance, Raffinée would endure a series of changes that shifted the brand from French high perfumery to mass-market accessibility—yet, remarkably, it survived.

The turning point came in 1993, when the historic French house of Houbigant—after years of complicated ownership structures and diminishing influence—filed for bankruptcy protection. At that time, Houbigant ceased its own design, marketing, and distribution operations, instead restructuring itself as a trademark licensor. In 1994, the Bankruptcy Court granted approval for Houbigant to enter into a licensing agreement with Parfums Parquet, Inc. (PPI), its exclusive licensee in the United States. This agreement granted PPI the rights to produce and distribute several fragrances under the Houbigant name, including Raffinée.

That same year, PPI was acquired by Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc. (RCI), a newly formed American cosmetics and fragrance company with ambitions to revitalize classic fragrance names. Through this acquisition, RCI gained control over twelve Houbigant perfumes, including Raffinée, Chantilly, French Vanilla, White Chantilly, and Lutece, along with Alyssa Ashley Musk. Renaissance’s strategy centered around reintroducing established fragrances, largely through drugstores and mass-market channels, a shift that positioned Raffinée far from its original image of high-end Parisian elegance.

In 1995, Renaissance expanded rapidly, acquiring Dana Perfumes Corporation (known for Tabu, Canoe, and Heaven Sent) from the Serra family, as well as Cosmar, a manufacturer of nail care products. This trio—Houbigant, Dana, and Cosmar—formed the core of Renaissance's cosmetic and fragrance operations. As Houbigant’s licensing efforts narrowed, the parent company retained focus on a select group of heritage scents, primarily Quelques Fleurs and Demi-Jour, while the other former stars of the brand were left in the hands of mass-market distributors.

However, Renaissance’s growth proved unsustainable. In 1997, its founder Thomas Bonoma passed away, and by 1999, Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Its assets were acquired by New Dana Perfumes, which later rebranded as Dana Classic Fragrances. By the early 2000s, this entity relaunched several well-known names, including Canoe and Heaven Scent, though the focus on Raffinée appeared to diminish during this period.

Around this time, distribution of Raffinée shifted once more. At some point in the early 2000s, the fragrance was taken over by Aladdin Fragrances, a company founded in 1986. Aladdin had also acquired rights to distribute other former Houbigant products such as Lutece, as well as the ex-Shulton brand Santa Fé. They additionally held U.S. and Canadian distribution rights for Pierre Cardin fragrances, suggesting their specialization in heritage brands with established name recognition.

By 2015, yet another transition occurred when Five Star Fragrances—a company known for handling a variety of classic scents—began selling Raffinée, continuing its availability, primarily in modest formats like Eau de Toilette. However, by 2019, the reins had passed again, this time to Prism Parfums, the current producer and distributor of Raffinée.

Despite these shifts in stewardship—from Houbigant to Parfums Parquet, Renaissance, Dana Classic, Aladdin, Five Star, and now Prism—the fragrance has managed to endure. Its formulation may have changed slightly over the years due to ingredient regulations, cost adjustments, or house reformulations, but the name Raffinée still carries the aura of elegance and refinement it was born with. It stands as a testament not only to the perfume’s original composition, but to the enduring appeal of its message: that true sophistication never really goes out of style, even if the company behind it does.