Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant c1921

Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant, launched in 1921, emerged as a poetic tribute to spring and a celebration of nature’s return. The name is French—pronounced "luh tahn day lee-lah"—and translates to “The Time of the Lilacs.” Just saying it evokes the first warm days of April and May, when lilacs bloom in fragrant abundance. It conjures an image of sunlight filtering through soft, green leaves, of gardens stirred to life after a long winter, of youthful romances, poetry, and gentle walks under flowering boughs. The name is evocative, filled with nostalgia and renewal—perfectly suited to a postwar generation eager to reclaim beauty and joy.

The year 1921 was a pivotal moment in both perfumery and society. The world was just emerging from the devastation of World War I. In France, the 1920s—Les Années Folles, or “the crazy years”—saw a cultural flowering across fashion, art, and fragrance. Women were enjoying greater freedom; skirts were shorter, hair was bobbed, and perfumes became bolder or more modernized versions of familiar themes. Amid the rising tide of aldehydic compositions and rich orientals, Houbigant’s Le Temps des Lilas offered something else: a return to innocence and nature, interpreted through the advanced techniques of modern perfumery.

Lilac as a fragrance note was nothing new—it had been a favorite throughout the 19th century and into the early 20th. But unlike rose or jasmine, lilac cannot be extracted naturally; its scent fades quickly when harvested. This meant perfumers had to rely on their artistry, using a blend of synthetics and natural materials to recreate its elusive floralcy. The earliest lilac accords used jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, neroli, heliotrope, and rose to approximate its creamy-powdery sweetness. But by the early 20th century, synthetic molecules such as terpineol, linalool, hydroxycitronellal, anisic aldehyde, and heliotropin had become crucial tools. These not only enhanced realism but also allowed a perfumer to tailor the lilac impression—making it fresher, greener, more powdery, or more romantic, depending on the house style.

In the case of Houbigant, Le Temps des Lilas was likely crafted to evoke both the nostalgic softness of old-fashioned lilac waters and the new clarity and projection made possible by synthetics. The fragrance would have blended the green-citrus lift of terpineol and hydroxycitronellal with the almond-like sweetness of heliotropin and the creamy spice of anisic aldehyde, reinforcing a lilac impression that was at once naturalistic and slightly idealized.

For the women of the 1920s, this perfume would have offered a kind of fragrant reassurance—gentle, feminine, familiar. It wasn’t daring like the new chypres or enveloping like the heavy orientals. Instead, Le Temps des Lilas spoke of purity, refinement, and a deeply felt connection to nature and the seasons. At a time when the world was changing rapidly, it offered a moment of calm, a reminder of beauty’s permanence.

In the broader context of perfumery, it followed a well-established floral trend, but what made it unique was its timing, its emotional resonance, and the deftness of its composition. Rather than reinventing lilac, Houbigant reinterpreted it—infusing this beloved floral with the clarity and reach of modern materials while honoring its timeless appeal. The result was a perfume that felt like poetry in scent—simple, emotive, and enduring.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: terpineol, anisic aldehyde, phenylacetaldehyde, Italian orange blossom
• Middle notes: heliotropin, Levantine bitter almond, Grasse jasmine absolute, Grasse tuberose, linalool, Comoros ylang ylang, rhodinol, Tuscan violet, ionone, cinnamic alcohol, methyl anthranilate, hydroxycitronellal 
• Base notes: benzyl acetate, Virginian cedar, Abyssinian civet, vanillin, Turkish storax, Tibetan musk, Indian musk ambrette

Scent Profile:

To inhale Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant is to be immersed in the delicate poetry of spring’s awakening—its air is not merely floral, but filled with the emotions and textures of petals, stems, pollen, and soft earth. Launched in 1921, this perfume was an ode to lilac, though not in the literal sense—true lilac oil cannot be extracted naturally. Instead, this composition is a masterful illusion crafted from a chorus of natural materials and evocative synthetics that recreate the scent of lilac and the mood of its fleeting bloom.

The top notes open with a luminous sparkle. Terpineol, a gentle, pine-derived alcohol often used in lilac accords, greets the nose with a soft, woody-floral freshness, like dew evaporating from newly unfurled leaves. It smells clean, green, and faintly soapy in the most refined way. This green shimmer is sweetened by anisic aldehyde, which lends a powdery, anise-tinged delicacy—imagine the faint sweetness of licorice wafting from a bouquet. Then, phenylacetaldehyde introduces a narcotic, green-honey note reminiscent of blooming narcissus or freshly picked hyacinths. It's raw and floral, intoxicating in its brightness. Anchoring this opening is Italian orange blossom, sun-drenched and creamy, adding a citrus-floral glow that brightens the aldehydes and gives structure to the soft lilac impression that is beginning to form.

As the perfume deepens into the heart, it reveals a sumptuous floral bouquet, lush and emotionally rich. Heliotropin, also known as piperonal, radiates a creamy, powdery sweetness like cherry pie and sugared almonds, a vital part of the illusion of lilac. Its gently gourmand character is amplified by Levantine bitter almond, whose marzipan-like aroma adds a hint of dry, nutty warmth—an anchoring note that softens the ethereal florals. Grasse jasmine absolute unfurls next, intensely narcotic and radiant, adding depth and a touch of indole that makes the lilac bouquet feel more alive, more bodily.

Grasse tuberose, creamy and buttery, reinforces the dense floral character, while Comoros ylang ylang introduces a tropical creaminess, lending a voluptuous, banana-like quality to the blend. Linalool, a naturally occurring terpene alcohol from coriander or rosewood, contributes to the airy freshness—it’s citrusy, slightly spicy, and floral, helping to lift and diffuse the richer notes. Rhodinol, extracted from geranium oil, brings a rosy-green brightness that threads between the jasmine and violet. Tuscan violet, likely constructed with ionones, provides the soft powderiness and airy transparency so vital to the lilac fantasy—its gentle purple haze is both nostalgic and dreamy.

The floral heart is spiced gently with cinnamic alcohol, bringing a faint balsamic warmth that connects the middle to the deeper base. Methyl anthranilate, a naturally occurring ester with a grape-jam sweetness, enhances the fruity, petal-like qualities of the violet. Hydroxycitronellal, the cornerstone of many muguet and lilac accords, imparts a soft, dewy greenness and floral sweetness—like crushed green stems, rain-kissed and tender.

In the base, the composition rests on a velvet cushion of sensual, animalic and woody notes. Benzyl acetate, a floral-fruity ester found in jasmine and ylang ylang, carries a whisper of banana and powder, reinforcing the creamy textures of the heart. Virginian cedar offers a dry, pencil-shavings woodiness, subtle but grounding, preventing the florals from floating away entirely. Turkish storax (Liquidambar orientalis) lends a sweet, balsamic smoothness with a hint of leather and smoke, adding a soft darkness beneath the bright florals.

The animalics are gorgeously restrained but essential. Abyssinian civet, warm and intimate, brings a skin-like, musky softness. Tibetan musk, more earthy and dense, adds depth and richness, while Indian musk ambrette, derived from plant seeds, softens the base with its radiant, powdery warmth—a vegetal musk with floral undertones. Vanillin contributes a creamy sweetness, familiar and comforting, heightening the almond and heliotrope aspects in the composition’s echo.

The total effect of Le Temps des Lilas is like stepping into a sunlit garden on the cusp of spring. You’re enveloped by the tender melancholy of lilac—both its sweetness and its fleetingness—supported by blossoms, greenery, creamy woods, and the delicate presence of skin-warm musks. It is a perfume not only of flowers but of memory, time, and emotion. A fantasy of nature, made possible by both the artistry of the perfumer and the alchemy of early 20th-century aromatic science.

Bottles:

The deluxe parfum presentation of Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant was housed in a remarkable flacon designed by the master of glass artistry, René Lalique. Created around 1922 and known as Model: Houbigant-Perfume-2 and was available in two sizes. The smaller version stands 8.5 cm tall, which is approximately 3.35 inches, while the larger version measures 11 cm, or about 4.33 inches in height. Both bottles feature the same exquisite design details—relief-molded scrollwork, black enamel lettering, and a comporting flat-topped stopper—though the proportions of the larger bottle allow the scroll pattern to extend more prominently across the surface, enhancing its visual impact. These two sizes offered options for both intimate personal use and more luxurious display, each embodying the refined artistry of early 20th-century French perfumery.This piece was not merely a vessel but a luxurious object that echoed the elegance and romanticism of the fragrance it contained.

The bottle itself is a study in symmetry and ornamentation. Its body is adorned with several encircling horizontal rows of relief-molded scrolls—fantastical, decorative flourishes that suggest stylized vines or the curling tendrils of blooming lilac, subtly referencing the floral theme of the perfume. These motifs lend a tactile richness to the bottle, catching light and shadow as it is turned in the hand, giving the surface a dynamic, living quality. The design evokes both motion and delicacy, mirroring the ephemeral charm of lilacs in bloom.

The front of the bottle is molded in relief with the name of the perfume, LE TEMPS DES LILAS, and the house name HOUBIGANT, both of which are highlighted in black enamel. This contrasting detail provides elegant visual clarity, drawing attention to the identity of the scent in a refined yet assertive way. Beneath the base, as with all authentic Lalique creations, is the molded LALIQUE signature—a hallmark of quality and artistry.

Topping the bottle is a comporting flat-topped stopper, a simple yet well-balanced contrast to the ornate scrolling on the body. The stopper’s clean lines and broad, level top give the presentation a sense of quiet modernism, ensuring that the overall design remains graceful and not overly decorative.

This bottle represents the collaboration between two icons of French luxury: Houbigant, a house synonymous with heritage and refined perfumery, and Lalique, whose contribution elevated the perfume bottle to an art object. Together, they created not just a container for fragrance, but a treasured keepsake—one that captured the fleeting beauty of lilac and preserved it in glass.

Other Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1921, Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant emerged during the golden age of perfumery, a period marked by post-war optimism, modernist innovation, and a flourishing of olfactory artistry. The name—Le Temps des Lilas, meaning "The Time of Lilacs" in French—evoked springtime nostalgia, tender romance, and fleeting beauty. It was the perfume of an awakening world, symbolizing renewal and delicate femininity in the wake of World War I.

Although the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, Le Temps des Lilas remained a beloved part of Houbigant’s fragrance line for decades. It was still sold under its original French name in 1950, suggesting that its classic lilac-forward bouquet continued to appeal to postwar sensibilities. By 1967, the perfume reappeared on the market under a new name—Lilac Time—a direct English translation, likely rebranded for English-speaking markets as part of a broader international distribution strategy. This shift in naming suggests an effort to modernize the perfume’s appeal while preserving its original essence.

Whether under its poetic French title or its gentle English equivalent, the fragrance retained its character: a faithful and sophisticated interpretation of lilac, one of perfumery’s most elusive floral accords. Its long presence on the market speaks to its enduring charm and the skill with which it was composed—a true celebration of spring in a bottle.