L’Oeillet Du Roy by Houbigant c1906

L’Oeillet du Roy by Houbigant, launched in 1906, was a revival and refinement of one of perfumery’s most enduring floral themes: the carnation. The name, L’Oeillet du Roy, is French and translates to “The King’s Carnation” in English. Pronounced roughly “luh-uh-yay doo rwah”, the name evokes nobility, tradition, and royal patronage. The carnation, or oeillet, had long held symbolic associations with love, distinction, and classic elegance—qualities that suited both royal imagery and feminine romanticism at the turn of the century.

In perfumery, carnation is prized for its spicy floral character, a profile shaped less by the fresh scent of the actual flower and more by the clever blending of certain materials. The characteristic carnation scent is recreated primarily with eugenol and isoeugenol, molecules that lend a warm, clove-like spiciness. In historical formulas, these might be paired with rose, jasmine, heliotropin, and even cinnamon or benzoin to round out the floral core and give it depth. Natural carnation absolute is incredibly expensive and difficult to extract in useful quantities, so most “carnation” fragrances have long been semi-abstract constructions—a blend of natural and synthetic that conveys not just the flower but the sensation of its essence.

By the early 20th century, aromachemicals had become a powerful tool for perfumers. Heliotropin, with its sweet almond and cherry nuances, and coumarin, with its soft hay-like warmth, helped anchor floral notes with powdery, comforting bases. These materials didn’t merely substitute for costly natural extracts—they added new textures and layers of emotion. In L’Oeillet du Roy, these ingredients would have enhanced the spicy floral theme while creating a structure with lasting presence and modern character.

The timing of this fragrance’s debut in 1906 was no accident. The Belle Époque was at its peak—a period in France known for opulence, artistic innovation, and a kind of luxurious optimism before the First World War. Women’s fashions were becoming slightly freer and more sensuous; the long, corseted silhouettes were still present, but the lines were beginning to soften. The Art Nouveau movement—of which Houbigant was an enthusiastic participant—celebrated nature, fluidity, and decorative elegance, all qualities mirrored in this perfume.

For women of the time, L’Oeillet du Roy would have represented both tradition and sophistication. Its floral heart spoke to a well-established love of blossoms, but its spicy edge and modern structure suggested a boldness that mirrored the growing complexities of early 20th-century femininity. It evoked the image of a woman both poised and self-assured—perhaps wearing an embroidered silk gown, her scent trailing clove and petal.

In the broader context of perfumery, carnation fragrances were a staple, but L’Oeillet du Roy stood out not just because of its refinement, but because it bore the stamp of Paul Parquet, the genius behind Fougère Royale and one of the true architects of modern perfumery. His ability to balance the new synthetics with natural beauty made his creations feel timeless yet progressive.

So while it belonged to a familiar floral category, L’Oeillet du Roy was no mere repetition—it was a reimagining of a beloved theme, rendered noble in name, modern in construction, and unforgettable in scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? L’Oeillet Du Roy by Houbigant is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli oil, bitter orange, iso eugenol, phenylacetaldehyde, amyl salicylate, benzyl acetate
• Middle notes: French carnation, American honeysuckle, Riviera orange, Zanzibar clove, benzyl isoeugenol, Ceylon cinnamon, Jamaican nutmeg, natural Grasse rose oil, linalool, geranyl formate, ionone
• Base notes: heliotropin, Mysore sandalwood, vanillin, coumarin, terpineol, clary sage oil, ethyl benzoate

Scent Profile:

Imagine holding a Baccarat crystal bottle of L’Oeillet Du Roy by Houbigant—a fragrance that channels the noble heart of French perfumery. As you remove the faceted stopper, the first wave is dazzling and crisp. Calabrian bergamot—sun-kissed and tart—opens the fragrance with a burst of sparkling green citrus, more refined and less sharp than other bergamot varieties. Immediately, Italian neroli oil follows, airy and ethereal, carrying that slightly waxy, honeyed floral scent that feels like sunlight through orange blossoms. A dash of bitter orange adds a slight pithy sharpness—less juicy than sweet orange, with a dry, aromatic edge. Woven through this citrus bouquet is iso eugenol, a key molecule naturally found in clove, here adding a spicy, woody warmth that hums beneath the florals. Phenylacetaldehyde, often used to recreate the green, honey-like scent of acacia or fresh-cut hyacinth, lends an aldehydic lift that is both floral and slightly metallic, heightening the brightness of the top. Amyl salicylate provides a sweet, banana-like warmth with a soft green floral nuance, diffusing the opening with a round, almost buttery softness. Benzyl acetate, a classic building block of jasmine, threads the whole into a silky ribbon—floral-fruity and slightly soapy, anchoring the freshness with elegance.

The heart of the fragrance is where the carnation—the “royal clove pink”—truly blooms. French carnation is the soul of the composition: peppery, spiced, rich with clove and a dusty floral nuance that evokes vintage powder boxes and old-world salons. The carnation’s natural clove-like facets are echoed and enhanced by Zanzibar clove bud oil, prized for its high eugenol content and aromatic intensity. The two form a duet of spice and floral complexity that is unmistakably regal. Alongside them, American honeysuckle adds a creamy, nectar-like sweetness that lends contrast and charm—its pale, floral breath cooling the fire of the clove. Riviera orange injects a splash of juicy brightness, reminiscent of bitter marmalade. Ceylon cinnamon adds warmth and depth, resinous and gently sweet, blending with the dry heat of Jamaican nutmeg, a spice rich in terpenes and with a woody, nutty character that rounds the heart. Into this bouquet, Grasse rose oil—intensely floral, subtly green, and delicately honeyed—lends prestige and aromatic fullness. It’s complemented by linalool, a natural component found in rosewood and lavender, adding a clean, almost herbal softness. Geranyl formate, fruity and rosy, and ionone, with its violet-leaf powderiness, bind the floral heart with velvety texture and a dreamlike finish.

The dry down is softly sensual, anchored by classic warmth and restrained sweetness. Heliotropin, also known as piperonal, brings an almond-vanilla facet with a touch of cherry and floral softness, evoking the scent of powdered skin and distant sun-warmed petals. Mysore sandalwood, creamy and aromatic, adds a sacred, grounding milkiness with slight balsamic undertones—its Indian origin prized for depth and authenticity. Vanillin, the synthetic twin of natural vanilla, wraps everything in a familiar warmth, intensified by coumarin, with its hay-like, almondy sweetness and golden glow. Terpineol contributes a lilac-like facet—clean and slightly citrusy—merging with the herbal-musk aroma of clary sage oil, giving an edge of soft leather and green fuzz. Finally, ethyl benzoate helps extend and round the composition, lending a silky diffusion that keeps the final impression mellow and harmonious.

Altogether, L’Oeillet Du Roy feels like a memory of a finely embroidered carnation corsage pinned to silk. Spiced with royal authority yet softened by romantic florals and creamy woods, it is an olfactory portrait of elegance from another era—resolutely feminine, unabashedly complex, and regally timeless.

Bottles:

The label reads "L'oeillet du Roy" and "Houbigant Paris" also on the label is a shield with three fleurs-de-lis and a crown.

"L'Oeillet du Roy," a perfume bottle for Houbigant, circa 1920s, in blue French opaline crystal, with hang tag, in box. Ht. 4"

c1920, photo by monalisa

1930-1950  flacon

Fate of the Fragrance:

 

L’Oeillet du Roy by Houbigant was launched in 1906 and remained part of the house’s offerings well into the mid-20th century. It was still being sold in 1950, a remarkable span that highlights the enduring appeal of this spicy floral creation. While many perfumes of its time faded quickly from shelves, L’Oeillet du Roy—with its elegant nod to regal imagery and its rich carnation heart—maintained a quiet yet steadfast presence in the Houbigant catalog.

Despite its longevity, the perfume was eventually discontinued, though no specific end date has been documented. Its gradual disappearance likely occurred as perfumery moved toward more streamlined, modern compositions in the decades following World War II. The decline of the traditional carnation perfume genre also contributed to its fading, as the fashion for spicy florals waned in favor of aldehydic florals and abstract chypres. Still, L’Oeillet du Roy stands as a distinguished example of early 20th-century French perfumery—a fragrance of courtly refinement and bygone elegance that lingered just long enough to bridge two eras of scent.