Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant was introduced in 1899, a time when French perfumery was experiencing a golden age of innovation, elegance, and symbolism. The name, Coeur de Jeannette—pronounced roughly as "kur duh zhan-ette"—translates from French to “Jeannette’s Heart.” This poetic phrase evokes not only a sense of intimacy and romance but also references the delicate bleeding heart flower, known in French as coeur de marie or coeur de Jeannette. With its distinctive heart-shaped blooms and trailing “tear,” the flower serves as a poignant metaphor for tender emotion, fleeting beauty, and the mystique of feminine allure.
At the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle, Houbigant unveiled this fragrance as a special creation to commemorate the event—a world’s fair that celebrated progress, art, and modernity at the dawn of the new century. It was a bold move that cemented Houbigant’s place as a forward-thinking house blending art and science, tradition and innovation. The perfume was created by Paul Parquet, a pioneering perfumer known for crafting complex, emotional compositions that departed from the rigid soliflores of earlier decades. Coeur de Jeannette was no exception—it was classified as a floral oriental, with spicy undertones that hinted at the exotic and the refined, lending the wearer an aura of mystery and sophistication.
The perfume itself was described as “a subtle caress of tropical fragrance, most delicate and dainty,” and it was said to bestow upon a woman “the softer appeal of indefinable charm, almost infinitely illusive and magical.” These poetic descriptions reflect the era’s fascination with femininity as an art form—a quality to be evoked, enhanced, and even idealized through fragrance. At the turn of the 20th century, women were embracing more tailored fashions and assertive roles in society, but scent remained a deeply personal and romantic accessory, a means of expressing one’s inner life and identity.
In this context, Coeur de Jeannette would have felt both modern and timeless. Its floral-oriental composition—built around notes of jasmine, rose, spicy clove and cinnamon, and soft balsams—distinguished it from the brighter citrus or powdery violet fragrances of the time. It tapped into the trend for more complex and layered perfumes that mirrored the sophistication of the Belle Époque woman—well-read, socially active, and increasingly independent.
Whether worn to a garden fête, the opera, or simply dabbed behind the ears for a private moment, Coeur de Jeannette represented a rare harmony between sentiment and sensuality. In a market increasingly crowded with floral bouquets and single-note scents, it stood out as a perfume of emotion—a heart-shaped tribute to tenderness, memory, and the refined enchantments of early 20th-century femininity.
Art Nouveau at its Finest:
Alphonse Mucha, one of the most iconic artists of the Art Nouveau movement, lent his signature style to the design of the label for Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant—a choice that immediately positioned the fragrance line within the realm of high art and luxury. Mucha’s involvement brought a sense of visual poetry to the perfume, reinforcing the romantic and ethereal qualities already suggested by its name and scent profile. His design became the unifying visual identity for the entire product range, appearing not only on the perfume bottles but also on boxes, lotions, soaps, and travel accessories associated with the line.
The label itself features a stylized depiction of the bleeding heart flower, a botanical symbol of delicate, melancholy beauty and romantic longing. Mucha rendered the flower in soft pinks, emphasizing its graceful droop and tender curvature. The petals, arched and symmetrical, are crowned by a chain of tiny stars—possibly alluding to a celestial or fairy-tale quality. Surrounding the central image are arched borders and scrolling motifs, hallmarks of Mucha’s decorative style, drawn in muted, organic tones that harmonize with the gentle elegance of the overall fragrance presentation. The typography is slender and fluid, further reinforcing the label’s feminine and emotional character.
What makes this label especially distinctive is its use across all formats within the Coeur de Jeannette line. Whether it was applied to the parfum’s pressed glass flacon, the box of bath soap, or the lotion bottle, the Mucha artwork remained consistent. This repetition created a cohesive visual identity, a rarity for fragrance branding at the time. Consumers who owned more than one product from the range would see the label as both an emblem of quality and a reminder of the perfume’s poetic heart. The integration of Mucha’s graphic art with perfumery—two distinct forms of artistic expression—elevated Coeur de Jeannette beyond a simple cosmetic product into a collector-worthy object of beauty.
A Queen's Favorite:
Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant holds a special distinction not just in the annals of perfumery but in royal history—it was reportedly the favored perfume of Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom. This choice bestowed an air of refinement and exclusivity on the fragrance, elevating it from a luxury to a personal signature of royalty. The Queen’s preference was so enduring that, according to a 1903 issue of The Spatula, she remained “constant to one perfume,” referring specifically to Coeur de Jeannette.
At the time, this perfume was considered a private treasure, nearly inaccessible to the general public. Its price—thirty dollars per pint—might seem modest now, but for the early 20th century it was a sum that marked it as a high-end product reserved for those of means. More significantly, it was said that the brand was deliberately kept from broad distribution, a conscious effort to prevent it from becoming “vulgarized.” This exclusivity made the rare occasions when Queen Alexandra presented a box of the perfume as a gift especially meaningful—a true mark of royal favor.
The cultural context is rich: Queen Alexandra's steadfast loyalty to Coeur de Jeannette contrasted with the more changing tastes of other royals, such as the Russian Czarina, who favored Parma violets, jonquil, and jasmine, or the German Empress, who preferred the scent of new-mown hay. The Queen of Holland, notably, reportedly disliked most perfumes altogether, save for classic eau de cologne. Against this backdrop, Coeur de Jeannette stood out as a uniquely dignified and feminine choice—delicate, floral, slightly exotic, and never overbearing.
That a perfume so intimately associated with charm and softness also became an emblem of royal poise reflects the fine balance the fragrance struck. Its romantic floral heart, subtle spice, and tender tropical undertones aligned with Queen Alexandra’s image—elegant, regal, yet warm and gracious. The scent was not just a luxury—it was a symbol of cultivated taste and enduring refinement.
So what does it smell like? Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with spicy notes. "Coeur de Jeannette is a subtle caress of tropical fragrance most delicate and dainty."
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Paraguayan petitgrain, aldehydes (natural citrus peel derived), Tuscan violet leaf absolute, Syrian acacia, Moroccan mimosa, Swiss lilac
- Middle notes: Tunisian orange blossom, American honeysuckle, Portuguese tuberose, Grasse rose de mai, Grasse jasmine absolute, benzyl acetate, Comoros ylang ylang, Tuscan violet, ionone, French linden blossom, Indian carnation, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cinnamon
- Base notes: Florentine orris butter, Mysore sandalwood, Indonesian patchouli, Peru balsam, Levantine styrax, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan musk, ambergris
Scent Profile:
Opening the flacon of Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant is like lifting the veil on a forgotten garden at twilight—lush, warm, and dreamlike. The top notes greet you with a shimmer: citrusy aldehydes—derived naturally from citrus peels—introduce a sparkling, slightly waxy brightness that instantly evokes sunlight dancing on delicate petals. Calabrian bergamot follows, less sharp than lemon, with its soft, floral citrus roundness that is immediately uplifting and refined. Paraguayan petitgrain brings a verdant bitterness, green and slightly woody, bridging the sharpness of citrus with the greenery of the floral heart. Tuscan violet leaf absolute breathes cool, metallic green tones, like crushed leaves in the palm. Then comes the trio of floral wisps: Swiss lilac with its faint powdery sweetness, Moroccan mimosa lending golden warmth and soft fuzziness, and Syrian acacia—dry, faintly honeyed, almost ethereal—giving a touch of fragile elegance.
As the top notes recede like morning mist, the heart blooms in full. Tunisian orange blossom unfurls with creamy brightness, bringing light and smoothness; it is followed by the dewy sweetness of American honeysuckle—airy and tender. Portuguese tuberose appears in contrast, lush and narcotic, heady without overwhelming. Grasse jasmine absolute joins in—an indolic richness that dances between animalic and floral, grounding the perfume’s airy sweetness. Benzyl acetate adds a fruity-pear nuance, intensifying the natural radiance of the floral materials. Comoros ylang ylang brings a deeper, banana-like creaminess, while the reappearance of Tuscan violet gives the perfume its soft, powdery curve. A wisp of French linden blossom introduces an almost herbal-honeyed roundness, followed by Indian carnation, whose spicy clove-like petal note sharpens the romantic bouquet. That spice is amplified by the warm sting of Zanzibar clove and the sweeter heat of Ceylon cinnamon—elegantly stitched into the floral arrangement like golden embroidery.
The base of Coeur de Jeannette is a sumptuous cushion. Florentine orris butter gives a velvety, soft foundation—powdery, gently woody, and cold. Mysore sandalwood follows with its warm, creamy wood note, unmistakable and irreplaceable, grounding the fragrance in quiet luxury. Indonesian patchouli brings a leafy darkness—slightly camphoraceous and earthy—balancing the floral lightness. Peru balsam and Levantine styrax lend deep balsamic sweetness with nuances of vanilla and resin, wrapping the composition in warmth. Mexican vanilla and Venezuelan tonka bean bring their smooth, gourmand facets—vanilla’s rich creaminess meets the almond-tobacco facet of tonka. Tibetan musk adds a soft, animalic trail, warm and elusive, while the ambergris, that rare and mythic note, gives the entire fragrance its ethereal lift and salty, radiant diffusion.
Altogether, Coeur de Jeannette is not simply a floral oriental—it is a perfume that feels almost like a memory: textured, ephemeral, haunting. Each material is chosen with care not only for its aroma but for its emotion, making the fragrance a poetic experience suspended in time.
Bottles:
At the heart of the line was the Parfum, the most concentrated and long-lasting form of the fragrance. Rich with essential oils and natural absolutes, it was typically reserved for special occasions or evening wear. The Eau de Toilette, by contrast, offered a lighter concentration and was more appropriate for daytime use. It provided a delicate veil of scent, refreshing and easier to reapply throughout the day. The Hair and Skin Lotion—also known as a "lotion végétale"—was often used like an eau de cologne. It had a watery, alcohol-based consistency meant for liberal use on both the body and hair, leaving behind a light fragrance while toning the skin or taming flyaways.
Face Powder infused with the Coeur de Jeannette fragrance allowed wearers to enjoy the scent in a tactile form that blended with the complexion. It imparted both a soft aroma and a velvety finish to the skin. The Powdered Sachet, likely intended for lingerie drawers or linens, allowed the floral fragrance to perfume clothing and personal items subtly. This form extended the scent into a woman’s daily surroundings, emphasizing the intimate luxury that perfume conferred.
The Soap, often finely milled and long-lasting, brought the fragrance into the bath—a moment of daily ritual and sensual pleasure. Its scent was softer, evolving with warm water and steam to reveal floral and powdery aspects of the formula. Finally, Brilliantine, a scented hair oil popular at the time, served both as a grooming aid and a perfume vehicle. Applied to the hair, it added shine while ensuring the fragrance was subtly diffused with every turn of the head.
Together, these variations formed a complete fragrance wardrobe, allowing the wearer to layer Coeur de Jeannette in ways that suited the occasion, the season, or the mood. It also reflected the early 20th century’s growing emphasis on personal grooming, beauty rituals, and the idea of perfume as a lifestyle rather than a single moment.
Lyre Bottle:
The presentation of Cœur de Jeannette by Houbigant was as exquisite as the fragrance itself, embodying the romantic and refined aesthetics of the late Belle Époque. Created for its launch in 1899 and likely featured at the 1900 Paris Exposition, the perfume’s packaging was a beautiful expression of early Art Nouveau sensibilities, designed by none other than Alfons Mucha—one of the movement’s most influential artists.
The bottle was housed in a richly crafted rectangular box made of cardboard, its silhouette gently contoured (referred to in French as chantourné), and covered in faux morocco paper that imitated the texture of fine leather. The box was adorned with a vividly printed, multicolored floral label in the Art Nouveau style, illustrated by Mucha himself. These labels often featured flowing lines, blooming flowers, and ethereal female figures—hallmarks of his romantic and highly stylized work. This polychrome vignette gave the box a luxurious and artistic presence, elevating it far beyond typical commercial packaging of the time.
The perfume flacon came in multiple forms across slightly different editions. One version was a pressed and molded clear glass bottle with a rectangular or cubical shape and a gracefully bulging, lyre-shaped body (panse galbée), creating a gentle curve that caught the light beautifully. I have dubbed it the "lyre bottle." It was fitted with a narrow neck (col à carnette) and sealed with a stylized heart-shaped stopper—some also described as floral in form. The stoppers were sealed with Plomb de Garantie (PdO), a wax seal traditionally used to authenticate unopened luxury goods.
Each bottle featured a coordinating label designed again by Mucha, bearing lush floral ornamentation of the bleeding heart blossom in flowing, romantic curves—harmonizing with the perfume’s name and poetic profile. The entire presentation—both box and bottle—reflected the spirit of the age: one of elegance, femininity, and artistic sophistication. At a height of 13–13.5 cm (approximately 5.1 to 5.3 inches), the bottle was substantial enough to be cherished as a decorative object, making Cœur de Jeannette not only a perfume but also a treasured keepsake from the golden age of French perfumery.
Cristal Nancy Bottle:
Another beautiful bottle used for Cœur de Jeannette was produced by the renowned Cristalleries de Nancy, a distinguished French glassmaker celebrated for its high-quality crystal during the Art Deco and Art Nouveau periods. This particular version of the bottle adds yet another layer of refinement to Houbigant’s already luxurious presentation of the fragrance.
The bottle itself is crafted from clear crystal and acid-etched on the base with the marking “Cristal Nancy CN, France”, signifying its authenticity and high craftsmanship. The shape is elegant and compact, standing at 3 7/8 inches tall. Its clean, cuboid silhouette is crowned with a mushroom-shaped frosted glass stopper, which is molded with eight soft lobes—a sculptural flourish that gives the bottle a delicate, petal-like appearance when viewed from above. The stopper’s frosted finish contrasts beautifully with the clarity of the bottle’s body, a play of textures that elevates its tactile and visual appeal.
The label affixed to the front of the bottle is done in Art Deco style, yet harmonizes with the earlier Alfons Mucha-designed polychrome Art Nouveau vignette, which appears again on the matching box. This blend of styles—Deco’s geometric elegance and Nouveau’s lyrical florals—makes the bottle especially collectible, representing a transitional period in design.
The presentation box is made of sturdy cardboard and wrapped in textured paper, much like the box used for the earlier Baccarat version. Measuring 4.25 by 2.5 inches, the box features the same iconic Mucha floral illustration as the bottle label, tying the entire package together in a coherent and artful narrative.
Subtle details such as the “Made in France” inscription on the bottle’s base and the “France” printed on the reverse of the label emphasize its French origin and underscore the prestige of both the perfumer and the glassmaker. Altogether, this version of Cœur de Jeannette reflects not only the artistic legacy of Houbigant but also the refined sensibilities of early 20th-century luxury craftsmanship.
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Carre Flacon:
This bottle of Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant is a striking example of early 20th-century French perfume packaging, merging crisp geometry with delicate Art Nouveau flourishes. Crafted from pressed clear glass, the bottle is both functional and elegant. Its shape is defined by a square base that rises with clean, straight sides into gently rounded shoulders, offering a substantial yet refined silhouette that fits neatly in the hand. I have dubbed it the "carre flacon", or "square bottle."
What makes this bottle especially distinctive is its seven-sided glass stopper—a rare geometric feature that adds architectural interest to an otherwise soft design. The stopper is faceted, resembling a cut gem, and slightly flares at the top. Made of clear glass, it captures and reflects light beautifully, giving a subtle brilliance to the overall appearance. The stopper is tied off with a wisp of ribbon or cord—typical of Houbigant's sealing methods during this period—and likely includes an internal glass plug, indicating a splash-style application.
Front and center is the bottle’s Art Nouveau label, which is quintessentially Alphonse Mucha in style. The imagery features a pair of stylized bleeding heart flowers rendered in soft pink with fine botanical detailing, framed by graceful arches and natural motifs in muted tones. The text, “COEUR DE JEANNETTE – HOUBIGANT PARIS,” is elegantly arranged within the label’s arched borders, suggesting both romance and refined luxury. A vertical "Made in France" tag affixed to the side further emphasizes its authenticity and export heritage.
This design likely dates from the late 1910s to early 1930s, a period during which Houbigant produced several flacons of similar geometric elegance, used across multiple fragrance lines. The bottle's balance of clean form and decorative flair reflects the transition from Art Nouveau to early Art Deco—still floral and romantic, yet with increasingly modern lines.
Altogether, this bottle is not only a vessel for fragrance but also a keepsake of design history—an object that conveyed beauty, sophistication, and Parisian artistry to women who prized elegance in every detail of their toilette.
Bouchon Or Flacon:
Houbigant’s travel bottles from the 1910s through the 1930s represent a perfect harmony of function, elegance, and portability. Slim and refined, these flacons have an oblong footprint with graceful vertical lines that give them a dignified, understated appearance. The bottles are topped with ground glass “tab” stoppers, entirely gilded in gold—both decorative and functional. These stoppers, with their flat tabs, were designed for easy removal and to preserve the perfume’s integrity, but due to their delicate structure and thin-walled glass, they are considered quite fragile today.
The travel bottles came in at least two known sizes. The 0.25 oz version is particularly petite, standing at just 2.5 inches tall, with the upright proportions of a miniature rectangle. The 0.5 oz version is slightly larger and more square-like in silhouette, measuring about 3 inches tall. Most examples are acid-etched or molded with “France” on the base, affirming their French origin and placing them within a tradition of quality glass manufacture of the time.
These flacons were used across Houbigant’s perfume range, making them a versatile standard for travel-sized presentation throughout this period. The 0.25 oz bottle, in particular, is often found housed in a metal travel case introduced in 1931. This case is shaped like an elongated octagon, sleek and compact. It opens via a side hinge with a small button clasp on the opposite side. A green enameled chevron embellishes the center front of the case—an elegant, modern detail reflective of Art Deco styling. The base of the case is impressed with the name “HOUBIGANT” in capital letters.
Measuring 2.5 inches high by 1.25 inches wide and 5/8 of an inch deep, the case was designed to discreetly slip into a handbag or evening clutch, allowing the wearer to carry her perfume with sophistication and ease. Altogether, these travel sets speak to Houbigant’s attention to refined luxury, even in the smallest, most portable forms.
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"Lotion" Bottle:
The Houbigant "Lotion" bottle for Coeur de Jeannette is a beautifully restrained example of early 20th-century French perfume presentation—elegant, thoughtful, and practical. Standing at 5.5 inches tall, this flacon was used not only for Coeur de Jeannette, but also for other iconic Houbigant creations such as Quelques Fleurs, Idéal, and Fougère Royale. The bottle was typically filled with a lotion vegetale, understood at the time to mean a perfumed vegetable oil, meaning it was a blend of water, alcohol and vegetable oil infused with fragrance used as a lightly moisturizing hair groom or eau de cologne—a fragrant tonic meant to refresh, soften, or lightly perfume the hair or body. It was marketed as a unisex product, but with different uses recommended for men and women. For women, it was recommended as a hair treatment, applied after shampooing to damp hait to add fragrance and stimulate the scalp, and also before curling to prevent brittleness. For men, it was suggested as an aftershave and general grooming product
The flacon’s silhouette is a tall, narrow rectangular prism, with a slender, elongated neck and softly rounded shoulders. Molded from pressed clear glass, the form is crisp and clean, with refined edges that lend the bottle both precision and presence. The unadorned transparency of the glass showcases the warm golden tone of the liquid inside—an intentional design feature that signals purity, clarity, and subtle luxury. At the lower portion of the front face is a gently indented circular seal embossed with a decorative “H” monogram, a quiet but confident mark of the Houbigant house.
The stopper is a frosted glass disk with an artistic twist—it is molded into a three-lobed design, subtly flared and sculptural. Viewed from above, the form evokes a delicate flower or fan, a graceful flourish that softens the bottle’s otherwise architectural lines. This design was not only aesthetic but functional, providing a secure grip for removal. The tall neck was likely fitted with an inner glass plug, consistent with splash application methods used in personal grooming during this era.
The front of the bottle features an exquisite Art Nouveau label by Alphonse Mucha, a design signature of many Houbigant presentations from this period. The main label showcases a stylized bleeding heart motif in gentle pinks and greens, framed with the name “COEUR DE JEANNETTE – HOUBIGANT PARIS.” Above it, an arched secondary label marked “LOTION” completes the presentation. Both labels are printed with subtle metallic tones and fine black linework, giving the bottle a soft radiance that feels both romantic and refined.
This design—both in bottle form and decorative detail—was widely used by Houbigant during the 1910s through the 1930s, and is an archetype of the brand’s restrained yet artistic approach to luxury. Every element, from the Mucha label to the delicate stopper, expresses a sense of graceful femininity, ideal for women who appreciated the beauty of both fragrance and form in their daily rituals.
Borne Flacon:
Coeur de Jeannette, like many Houbigant perfumes of its era, was also offered in the so-called "borne" flacon, a distinctively shaped bottle that evokes the elegance and design sensibilities of the interwar years. This flacon was crafted from faceted glass, lending it a jewel-like quality, and it stood 9.5 cm tall—approximately 3.75 inches. Its structured silhouette gave it a refined, architectural presence, both modern and decorative.
The bottle features an inner stopper, which came in two variations. In one version, the stopper is made entirely of ground glass, seamlessly integrated into the flacon’s faceted form, mirroring its clean lines. The second version is slightly more elaborate, with a gilded metal covering a glass inner stopper, adding a touch of luxurious contrast to the otherwise transparent design.
What makes this presentation especially notable is the label—a delicate piece of artwork created by Alphonse Mucha, the celebrated Art Nouveau illustrator. It features the romantic "bleeding heart" motif, which ties directly to the name Coeur de Jeannette ("Heart of Jeannette") and the flower that inspired it. Mucha’s signature style of intricate floral forms and flowing lines adds a dreamlike, artistic quality to the packaging, making it a coveted collector's item.
This particular flacon style was used during the 1930s, and possibly extended into the 1940s, marking a transitional period in perfume presentation—one where the elegance of Art Nouveau began to merge with the cleaner lines of Art Deco. The borne flacon is a testament to Houbigant’s commitment to beautiful design as much as to olfactory craftsmanship.
Soap:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1899, Cœur de Jeannette by Houbigant emerged at the turn of the century as a poetic, floral-oriental fragrance that captured the refined romanticism of the Belle Époque. Created by the celebrated perfumer Paul Parquet, it was conceived as a delicate and captivating scent, intended to evoke soft, elusive beauty—something almost dreamlike, as suggested by the name itself. The perfume was notably introduced during the 1900 Paris Exposition, a moment when France was celebrating its industrial and artistic prowess on the world stage. It was during this exposition that Cœur de Jeannette was positioned not only as a luxury fragrance, but as a symbol of French artistry in perfumery.
The fragrance remained in production for several decades, and by all evidence, it continued to be sold at least into the 1950s. Though the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, its presence on the market for over half a century is a testament to its enduring popularity and appeal. As the 20th century progressed, shifting tastes and newer olfactory trends may have rendered Cœur de Jeannette a relic of a more delicate, romantic age—yet its reputation lingered. The scent became particularly notable as the personal favorite of Queen Alexandra, giving it an added aura of exclusivity and regal elegance.
Today, Cœur de Jeannette remains a quietly revered chapter in the story of Houbigant—an exquisite blend of floral charm and Oriental warmth that bridged centuries and styles before gradually fading into history.
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