Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant c1921

Le Temps des Lilas by Houbigant, launched in 1921, emerged as a poetic tribute to spring and a celebration of nature’s return. The name is French—pronounced "luh tahn day lee-lah"—and translates to “The Time of the Lilacs.” Just saying it evokes the first warm days of April and May, when lilacs bloom in fragrant abundance. It conjures an image of sunlight filtering through soft, green leaves, of gardens stirred to life after a long winter, of youthful romances, poetry, and gentle walks under flowering boughs. The name is evocative, filled with nostalgia and renewal—perfectly suited to a postwar generation eager to reclaim beauty and joy.

The year 1921 was a pivotal moment in both perfumery and society. The world was just emerging from the devastation of World War I. In France, the 1920s—Les Années Folles, or “the crazy years”—saw a cultural flowering across fashion, art, and fragrance. Women were enjoying greater freedom; skirts were shorter, hair was bobbed, and perfumes became bolder or more modernized versions of familiar themes. Amid the rising tide of aldehydic compositions and rich orientals, Houbigant’s Le Temps des Lilas offered something else: a return to innocence and nature, interpreted through the advanced techniques of modern perfumery.

Lilac as a fragrance note was nothing new—it had been a favorite throughout the 19th century and into the early 20th. But unlike rose or jasmine, lilac cannot be extracted naturally; its scent fades quickly when harvested. This meant perfumers had to rely on their artistry, using a blend of synthetics and natural materials to recreate its elusive floralcy. The earliest lilac accords used jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, neroli, heliotrope, and rose to approximate its creamy-powdery sweetness. But by the early 20th century, synthetic molecules such as terpineol, linalool, hydroxycitronellal, anisic aldehyde, and heliotropin had become crucial tools. These not only enhanced realism but also allowed a perfumer to tailor the lilac impression—making it fresher, greener, more powdery, or more romantic, depending on the house style.

Apercu by Houbigant (2000)

Aperçu by Houbigant has a story as layered and complex as the fragrance itself. Though it was originally conceptualized in 1984, the name was unavailable for trademark at the time. Instead, Houbigant moved forward with Lutèce—a name that sparked a legal challenge from a high-end Manhattan restaurant bearing the same title. After a dispute that garnered attention, Houbigant ultimately won the right to use "Lutèce" for their fragrance line. Yet the name Aperçu remained tucked away, waiting for its time. That opportunity finally came in 2000, when the name was cleared and Aperçu was officially launched—not as a new creation, but as a revival of a formula that had reportedly been preserved in Houbigant’s archives for 75 years, dating it back to the golden age of perfumery. The fragrance was distributed by Claire Fragrance Incorporated of Sayreville, NJ.

Why the name Aperçu? The word is French—pronounced ah-pehr-SOO—and translates to "a glimpse," "an insight," or "a fleeting impression." It’s an evocative term that conjures mystery, nuance, and sophistication. In scent, “Aperçu” suggests a fragrance that is not blunt or bold in its delivery, but one that reveals itself subtly, unfolding gradually on the skin and in the air. It promises something intimate—like catching a fleeting look across a crowded room or a memory stirring just beneath the surface.

The turn of the millennium, when Aperçu was released, marked a curious moment in perfumery. The late 1990s and early 2000s were saturated with minimalist, often sheer compositions and fruity-floral fragrances marketed toward a younger demographic. In contrast, Aperçu's reintroduction as a chypre was a return to the structure and elegance of a bygone era—a counterpoint to the prevailing trend. With its rich, earthy oakmoss, velvety sandalwood, bright neroli and lemon, spiced clove and cinnamon bark oil, lush ylang ylang, and the tangy-sweet nuance of black currant, it reintroduced complexity and depth to the fragrance landscape.

Contraste by Houbigant c1932

Contraste, launched by Houbigant in 1932, stands out as a fragrance shaped not only by its composition but by the evocative meaning of its name. “Contraste” is a French word, pronounced kohn-TRAHST, and in English, it translates directly to “contrast.” The choice of this name was a deliberate one—bold, sophisticated, and rich with symbolic nuance. It suggests duality, tension, and harmony between opposing forces. In the context of perfume, the name hints at a composition that plays with light and shadow, warmth and spice, softness and strength—an olfactory expression of complexity and depth. The emotional and visual imagery evoked by the word Contraste might include the interplay of silk and leather, gold against onyx, or moonlight falling across dark wood. It suggests a fragrance that is mysterious, daring, and confident.

The year 1932 falls within what is known as the Interwar Period—a time marked by both modernist experimentation and cultural upheaval. Though the global economy was still reeling from the aftermath of the 1929 stock market crash, France, particularly Paris, retained its status as a capital of art, fashion, and fragrance. This was the golden age of Art Deco, where geometry, luxury, and exoticism defined design. Fashion embraced longer hemlines after the flapper era, with silhouettes softening, yet still structured. Women were increasingly independent—many working, driving, and traveling—and their fragrances began to reflect this shifting identity.

To a woman in 1932, a perfume called Contraste would have felt contemporary and provocative. It likely appealed to a woman who was aware of her dual roles in society: both traditional and modern, domestic and worldly. She may have recognized herself in the very idea of contrast—elegant yet assertive, romantic yet rational. A name like Contraste offered both the promise of sensual mystery and a reflection of her own layered personality.

Indian Summer by Houbigant c1972

Indian Summer by Houbigant, launched in 1972, arrived at a moment of cultural introspection and natural romanticism. The name itself—Indian Summer—is rooted in the English language and refers to a period of unseasonably warm, dry weather that occurs in the late autumn, often after the first frost. The phrase evokes a poetic wistfulness, a golden lull between seasons—a last, lingering breath of warmth before the onset of winter. It carries with it a sense of serenity, fleeting beauty, and the quiet richness of late-season sun filtering through amber trees. Emotionally, it suggests nostalgia, sensual calm, and a reverence for nature’s slow exhale.

By choosing this name, Houbigant tapped into more than just meteorological poetry—it was aligning the fragrance with the feminine ideal of grace in transition: a woman in full bloom, luminous with experience, still warm with vitality, and surrounded by the golden light of her prime. The early 1970s, in which this perfume was introduced, was a time of major cultural shift. It was the height of the so-called “Me Decade,” when personal exploration, natural beauty, and individualism were celebrated. The fashion of the era moved toward earth tones, natural fibers, and unstructured silhouettes, signaling a return to nature and authenticity. Hair was worn long and loose, makeup was often minimal. The green movement had begun to take root, and so too did a trend in perfumery that favored lighter, more botanical compositions.

A perfume called Indian Summer would have appealed to the 1970s woman who identified with these ideals. She might have seen herself as modern yet in tune with the earth, introspective yet sensuous. The name itself might have conjured the image of sun-warmed skin, crushed leaves underfoot, the gentle crackle of dry grass, and the scent of air thick with late blooms and turning foliage.

Demi-Jour by Houbigant (1929)

Demi-Jour by Houbigant, launched in 1929, emerged at the cusp of a new decade and was very much a product of its time—rich with nuance, mood, and mystery. The name Demi-Jour is French, pronounced "duh-mee-zhoor", and translates to “half-light” or “twilight” in English. This evocative phrase conjures images of that hazy, transitional hour between daylight and darkness—when shadows stretch and soft illumination flatters every curve. It suggests intimacy, secrecy, and subdued elegance: a quiet moment alone in a boudoir, a whispered conversation behind closed doors, or the anticipation of evening's pleasures.

Choosing Demi-Jour as a name reflected Houbigant's flair for storytelling through scent. The fragrance was described as conjuring the end of the day in the boudoir of a fashionable woman—scented with traces of fresh-cut flowers, polished wood, amber-laced lotions, and the lingering hint of Russian leather from a cherished handbag. The perfume itself was said to evolve as it wore on the skin—initially floral and leathery, but deepening with chypre-like richness. This transformation mirrored the "half-light" experience: something in-between, shifting and suggestive. A honeyed fruit note would unexpectedly emerge, lending warmth and intimacy, like laughter over shared secrets during a late afternoon tea, or the soft golden smoke of a scented cigarette curling into velvet drapes.

When it was introduced, Demi-Jour entered a world still shimmering from the last glories of the Roaring Twenties. The Art Deco era was in full stride—streamlined silhouettes, metallic sheens, and geometric glamour dominated fashion and design. In perfumery, chypres, leathers, and aldehydes were taking center stage, reflecting the boldness and modernity of the new woman—independent, cosmopolitan, and sensual. Demi-Jour did not merely follow this trend; it deepened it, offering something more layered and psychological than many brighter, cleaner perfumes on the market.

Royal Houbigant by Houbigant c1893

Royal Houbigant by Houbigant was launched in 1893, during a time when Europe—and particularly France—was steeped in the aesthetics of grandeur, heritage, and elegance. The name Royal Houbigant is richly evocative. In plain English, it means “Regal Houbigant,” combining the French house’s own name with the English word “Royal” (pronounced: ROH-yal OO-bee-GAHN, with emphasis on the first syllable in each word). The term conjures up images of courtly refinement, silken gowns, gilded salons, and the perfume trays of queens and aristocrats. By appending “Royal” to their house name, Houbigant wasn’t merely branding a fragrance—it was asserting a legacy.

The name would have resonated deeply in the 1890s. This was the Belle Époque, a glittering age of peace, prosperity, and artistic flourishing in France. Royal families and noble houses still held strong influence, and Parisian fashion was ascending to unmatched heights. Corseted silhouettes, elaborate hats, and sumptuous fabrics like velvet, lace, and silk dominated the fashion scene. Perfume, too, was evolving—from singular floral waters to more complex compositions made possible by advancements in distillation and synthetic chemistry. To call a perfume “Royal” in this era was to suggest not just opulence, but also exclusivity, distinction, and a lineage of luxury.

Women of the time would likely have approached Royal Houbigant with a sense of aspiration. Perfume was more than adornment—it was a marker of status and a means of expressing one's femininity, refinement, and sophistication. A name like Royal Houbigant would evoke associations with courtly glamour and high fashion, a nod to Houbigant's own historic ties to royalty—including Marie Antoinette and Empress Eugénie. The perfume would have been chosen by women who identified with its bold elegance and wanted to make an impression that was lasting, perhaps a little mysterious.

Fleur Bienaimee by Houbigant c1930

Fleur Bienaimée by Houbigant was launched in 1930, during a period of remarkable creativity and modernity in both fashion and fragrance. The name itself—Fleur Bienaimée—is French, pronounced “flur bee-eh-neh-MAY,” and translates to “Beloved Flower” in English. Evocative and tender, the name conjures imagery of cherished blossoms gently plucked at dawn, cradled with affection, and pressed into the folds of memory. There is a poetic sweetness in its phrasing, as though the fragrance were not simply floral, but a living token of love, affection, or deep sentiment. Created by Robert Bienaimé—who had also given the world the legendary Quelques Fleurs—Fleur Bienaimée carried his signature style of refined, romantic compositions. It was said to be a fairly strong yet beautifully blended spicy floral, combining several springtime flowers still damp with dew. Hints of citrus lifted the opening, adding freshness to what was otherwise a sweet, slightly medicinal and musky scent. The “medicinal” note would likely have come from natural ingredients like clove, carnation, or cinnamon, which lent the composition a nostalgic warmth and familiarity. The musk gave it longevity and sensuality, while the sweetness grounded it emotionally—a balance between innocence and allure.